Foundation Shadowing

Foundation Rules:
First posted on this site in 2008 and 1998 on my old Aol blog. Since it’s closing of its doors I finally have added this post on to our site. I added my review of newer mascara types I have used and purchased in the past three years. I hope you enjoy.

Foundations – Most critical decisions based upon your skin type, coverage necessary, how to apply and skin color. Available in creams roll on or cream to powder form, minerals, liquid, lotions and compact, you need to know the purpose of foundation is to even out skin tone.

Foundation should disappear on your skin, the shade should always exactly match your natural coloring. If you can not match exactly then try a shade lighter. Most companies offer skin matching shade foundation. The key to a perfect finish is simple: blend, blend, blend, then blend.

Apply lightly with clean fingers, brush or sponge (dry or damp). Have noticeable facial hair? Facial hair is not just limited to men this is a common occurrence with aging women and if you have course dark hair. It’s just peach fuzz or thicker hair.

How to cover? Facial hair coverage works best with either separate products such as Dermablend or tricks such as lipstick, etc. Lipstick trick for small areas of facial hair is pink or red lipstick depending on your skin coloring. A blog post about that issue later address by Angela/Engela. Matte and heavier coverage will yield the greatest coverage, lotions the least (light weight formula).

To help reduce shine, blot oil with an oil blotting tissue before touching up with powder. You can buy this easily at your local drugstore since they have been around for years.

Available wet or dry, both, powder, gel or cream. Achieve a harmonious look by choosing shades within the same color family.
1. For day wear, choose natural shades depending on your eye color. You want to keep the look natural but bring out the color you have. Apply a little foundation or concealer on your eyelids followed by a pale, light shade over entire lid and brow bone.
2. Then accent with a darker shadow along the lid. Example: For blue eyes, choose shades of brown, taupe or subdue orange for contras.
3. The lightest is the highlighter.  This may seem old fashion to some but I find if you use it lightly and correctly it will be effective. Ex: If you want to give to appearance to raise your eye brows due to lack of sleep of hide to sign of aging.

You are not limited to using white unless your uniquely usually pale. For daytime if you are wearing a powder you may consider using a matte formula and in the evening using a shimmer. The highlighter show be suited for your skin type such as oily or dry as well as based on color and shade.

Perhaps you would prefer to use it under you eyes like a powder eye liner for older women.  When using an eye  highlighter remember it goes on first and usually along the natural brow line. You can use a cream or powder form depending on your skin type e.i dry, normal, combination or oily but I digress.

4. Next apply the medium shade on the lid itself and just beyond the crease, keeping most of the darker shades now to the outer corner of the eye. The darkest shade can be used in the crease itself very judiciously or just at the lash line, wet being the best for longer wear.

Just dip an angled brush into a small pot of water, shake off excess and then dig into a side area of your shadow, again shaking off excess and apply as closely to the lash line as possible, starting from the inside of the eye, working outward. Repeat for other eye. As to doing the bottom lash line, that may be taking it too far, particularly for a day look.

Remember, less is more. Make up should enhance what you already have not draw attention to itself. Too much and you’re a caricature of a woman or a Drag Queen. For night-time, pretty much anything goes, the darker the better for a “glamor” look.

To apply cream eye shadow, use a sponge to smooth on a very thin, very light layer of loose powder on the entire eyelid before putting on the shadow. Lightly apply cream eye shadow using your fingers. Follow with another light application of loose powder.

Eye Liners: Pencils, “Art liners”, liquid marker liner, creams, combination pencils or shadows? Pencils can drag, liners smudge, creams disappear or “roll.” Shadows are my first choice to use as a liner because if it’s longevity (staying power). Liquid markers are my second choose because it’s fast and mistake proof.

Shadows are easy to put on, they stay, build-able (built upon) and easily blended. One way to balance out your face is to focus on your eyes. Don’t put a big black line around your eyes unless you want a closed-in look. Keep the eye area open one way to carry out this task is to use light shadow around the eye area.

Finally the most common modern place to apply a highlight is around the eyes tear ducks. Of course you can use a simpler effect. The classic white eye pencil is has a similar effect as the shadow and is a classic makeup practice of opening your eyes. Making your eyes them appearance brighter.  Keep eye shadow flowing in an outward motion off the eye. Lift your brows by tweezing the arch a little higher than normal. This will visually alter the proportions of the face and draw the eye up and away from your mouth.

Mascara: Waterproof mascara is great to use either when perspiring during physical active such as sports  or otherwise be getting wet. regular is easier to take off without hurting your skin and therefore much more recommended. Maybelline XXL Extension Microfiber Mascara and the similar Loreal version are two of my current favorites. Both mascaras are made by the same company yes Maybelline and Loreal.

I also enjoyed Avon’s Astonishing Lengths Mascara in brun/noir (brown black) believe it or not. I have not used a Avon product in years and I bought it on sale for my local representative.  I found Avon’s Mascara goes on without clumping and make for wonderful looking lashes.  XXL Extension Mascara I have tried this mascara and have found it works very well. Beautifully tamed lashes with length beyond belief I agree XXL Mascara tams and lengthens but I don’t’ know where they get thickens. Perhaps if you have thicker lashes but not much noticeable effect on thickening my lashes occurred while in use.

It doesn’t thicken but it defiantly lengths my lashes. XXL clumped if more than two applications were applied. I don’t usually wear a lot of mascara, but I needed to know how much I could apply on my blond almost non-existing lashes. I have never used a product that has length my lashes as much as this both these mascaras. The only way I can imagine you could have longer ones is if you use false lashes which I find old fashion and a drag to apply (pardon the pun).

You don’t have to curl your lashes because the first white color stuff in the mascara tube will tame and curl your lashes. Next, the color I applied was the black brown for a more than natural look but not too much drama for day. I have very light-colored eyes and lashes. If you use an eyelash curler (recommended with regular mascara), do so before apply mascara, otherwise you will have them sticking and breaking off!

Curling lashes opens up the eyes. Putting a little extra powder under the eyes to catch fallen flakes is also recommended. One coat of brown for day wear, two coats of soft black for night or one if using the blackest black (very black) mascara. Use a metal fine-tooth lash comb immediately after applying to separate lashes and a Q-tip, available in flat/pointed sides as well, for blending away flakes on and around the eye.

Pencil or shadow work well to fill in a light brow. Brows are important as they frame your face, always tweeze from below the brow. Working with shadow and a flat angled brush, start in the darkest area and work out, tapering to the outside of the eye in a fine line. If pencil is used, apply in short strokes out and into a tapered point. Color should match your natural head hair. If you can not find you hair color in an eye pencil than you can use a half to a shade darker.

I follow this with either an old toothbrush or a brow brush brushing to smudge and diffuse the color, blending it in. Over the counter makeup tend to come with an application smudge tip with your eyeliner or eye brow pencil. If you apply too much color, soften by applying a bit of loose face powder in your correct shade with a powder puff.

I have used a mascara brush with a shade closest to my hair color and have found it just as easy as a brow pencil or eye liner. It tends to look more natural and is less time-consuming. No blending necessary but do use an eye lash comb if it’s too thick. To avoid this problem just make sure you don’t have too much mascara on the comb when you apply it to your eye brows.

Some women may use highlighters on other areas of face. Most common place is on the top of the cheek bones. I would consider using a modern form as I said before in a color that suits your skin coloring. Many other places to apply highlighter such as when contouring your breast to appear larger. Common practice for many years in Hollywood movie sets and plays. Believe it or not at one time a whole makeup team and not just a makeup artist were dedicated to applying makeup effects just as shadowing. An example is Juila or Julia Roberts for her performance in Erin Brockovich. Makeup shading is used to make her breast seem large. For more information about this time of shadow please refer to earlier post.

– Kel

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Are Face Masks Beneficial?

If there is one skin care item that can work miracles, it is a face mask. But, like any other skincare product, you should choose carefully to pick the right facial mask for you.  Face masks makes your skin smooth, prepare skin and helps to prevents aging.

Mask It!

Choose from the wonderful selection of face masks on the market to find one that is perfect for your skin.
Moisturizing Face Masks

These are ideal for dry complexions because they boost the moisture levels of your skin. This means they can help banish dry parches, flakiness and even fine lines. They work quickly like an intensive moisturizer and are usually left on the skin for 5-10 minutes before being removed with a tissue. The slight residue left on your skin will continue to work until you next cleanse your skin. They are a soothing treat, particularly after too much sun, or when your skin feels “tight”.

Clay and mud Face Masks

Ideal for oily skins, they absorb excess grease and impurities. They are an ideal way to close open pores, reduce shine and clear troublesome blemishes. They dry on your skin over a period of 5-15 minute and then you simply wash them away with warm water, rinsing dead skin cells, dirt and grime away at the same time. They are a fantastic pick-me-up for skin.

Exfoliating Facial Masks

Masks with a light exfoliating action can keep your skin in tip-top condition. Even normal skins sometimes suffer from the build-up of dead skin cells, which can create a dull look and lead to future problems such as blackheads. Masks that cleanse and exfoliate are the perfect solution. They smooth on like a clay mask, and are left to dry. When you rinse them away, their tiny abrasive particles slough away the skin’s surface debris.Peel-off Face Packs

Ideal for all skin types, the mask is smoothed on, left to dry and peeled off. This light formulation refreshes oily areas, clears clogged pores, helps aging mature skin, and nourishes drier skins.

Gel Face Masks

These are suitable for sensitive skins, as well as oily complexions, as they have a wonderfully soothing and cooling effect.

Makeup for Dark Complexion Woman

Eye Makeup for Dark complexion

While applying eye makeup, your better off avoiding light powdery colors and stick more with bright shades but do not cover the whole eyelid. Instead it’s much simpler to go for dark browns, copper, prunes and burgundy. Dark metallic colors also look good. Make sure your makeup is not only dark and bright enough for your skin so as not to look ashy. It’s important to keep in mind the shade you play on using. Girl, we don’t want no pumpkin (orange) faces here. If your dark your probably cool toned. Find out by putting a blue or red color (or metals like gold and silver) up against your skin. Always dust a little loose translucent powder over the eye shadow for smooth and subtle glow while getting ready for evening event. For a day look, you can apply gray or brown eyeliner. To offer thickness and volume to eyelashes, apply black to very black mascara. To recap so far it is important to know ones skin tone to use the right shades. Next, use bright colors to avoid the ‘ashy’ look.

Blush Application for Dark Complexion

Blush on is an important color component of makeup, so choose shade of the blush very carefully. You can go for rose; deep orange and coral shades for the dark complexion while you should avoid dull browns, pale pinks and peach shades. Very dark complexion woman can choose dark rose pink if it is day. Nighttime makeup go for plum, wine and bronze. At night you can add shimmer by touching up with shimmer or gold tone as gold really goes well with dark skin. For that look, apply gold at forehead and on the outer corners of eyebrows. Remember not all gold or silver look equally and it not just about how dark your are but you underlying skin tone. Basic Cool, Warm & Neutral.

Lip Makeup for Dark Complexion

As far as lip makeup for dark skin is concerned, avoid frost finish lipsticks just like very light skin woman, But you can choose matte a finish ones, if you like. You can use shades of browns, burgundy, berry shades and plums. Other colors, which suit dark skin, are shades of beige, bright pinks and gold or silver. There are many lip colors like mochas, coffees, chocolates, dark plums, berry shade, wine shades, burgundy, nude pinks and nude beiges look great on dark complexion. Never apply an orange shade. If you have dark toned lips, prepare a base first by a lip balancer. Once again pinks, berry’s, wines and burgundy are cool tone colors as the others are neutral or (nw) neutral warm shades.

Some Important Tips for Makeup of Dark Skin

– Dark Skin is less prone to pimples and blemishes so provides even tone for foundation blending.
– Liquid foundation is best for the dark Skin as dark skin has tendency to shine and cream foundation will make it worse. Cream are best for dry or aging skin. Doesn’t show lines easily.
– Best way to blend foundation is to use water based liquid foundation and blend it in skin by rubbing the sponge or using fingertips. Apply with and not against your skin. Lessing the appearance of streaks of foundation.
– If you have dark skin less the makeup is more (just like with very fair skin). Your focus should be on enhancing it’s inner glow and highlight the natural color. Pick your best feature ex apply liner on top of your eyes a soft natural eye shadow. A sheer bright lip color (still natural when sheer formulas are used) or a nude color. Finish off with very black or clear mascara and bright colored plum blush accenting the hollow of your cheek bones. By having most of your intense color in the cheeks you look natural and not over done. Ex take Katy Perry’s look but use darker shade of plum instead of light pink. You can match your eye shadow, lipstick and blush just makeup only one the heaviest. It is better to accentuate natural shades of skin then by trying to blend too many different colors.
– It is better not to apply eyeliner on the lower lashes. If you apply it sparingly in a thin line along with the shape of your eye it will not look as harsh. Never apply it on the lower lid. It will give artificial look.
– Choose mascara with natural black or clear color.
-Lastly don’t be afraid of color or playing around with color. Unlike medium to tan complexion your color selections are more limited, but you have the added benefit & option of using dark and bright colors… that others dream about! Dark and bright makeup will not look harsh unless you apply a lot of makeup.

Color of foundation should match with tone of your skin. Shade of foundation should not be lighter than your skin as it will appear as a un-natural mask. The layers of makeup are more visible on dark skin than medium to tan complexion. People with tell you that it is not as noticeable on the very fair to fair skin, but that is simply not true. Dark and very fair complexion (Caucasian) woman both have the same problem with makeup colors. Too much orange, ashy gray coloring and it’s hard to match your skin tone much less a littler shade. Finding the right shade is hard cus the makeup industry is about making money and very pale and dark complexion only makeup up a small percentage. Here blending is of much importance to avoid any uneven tone.

It can withstand the exposure to sun rays as it has more pigment, but you can still get skin cancer so don’t forget your sunscreen. Color of skin should not be of importance. As a woman of ethic race there is a perception of light and dark skin. Which is prettier a battle, lets say. In the Caucasian world it’s more about too fair (light skin) is viewed as ugly. Very fair, olive and dark complexion will find it can be costly to find makeup that fits your s kin color. Luckily more and more makeup companies sell makeup at the drugstores that are more likely to match your skin tone with new technology. I would check out Covergirls or Loreal matching foundation as if is matching about 99%. I’ve used it and it really does work and I’ve never found a foundation that came close to my skin that wasn’t stage makeup.

Some will tell you go natural even use mostly neutral shades…but I can tell you if you practice you will find that you can use bright colors and it still can look tasteful. Remember if you are very dark complexed you can use a bright color and it will not appear bright on yourself. Another idea comes from renowned make-up artist, Bobbi Brown. She shares her tips for Dark complexions. Skin: Finding the right shade of foundation has been tricky for darker-skinned women, as with very fair skin woman, but these days many companies have broadened their ranges. One thing many dark-skinned women find is that their skin is lighter over the cheeks and forehead, which can mean they need to blend two foundations for a perfect match. Make sure you use a deep, warm shade of powder, with a hint of yellow, to prevent the skin looking ash or dull. Don’t be afraid to not cover your entire face with foundation; just use it where the complexion needs some evening out.

Cheeks: “Some very dark skin looks best with no blush or just a hint of bronzing powder,” says Bobbi. For a medium skin tone, try a deep bronzing powder or a currant-toned blush. For a lighter tone, opt for plum, rose or even pink.

Eyes: Avoid colors that ‘fight’ your skin tone. (Meaning don’t use colors that are the too different that your own skin tone. Ex Using warm on cool skin.) Lining the eyes with blue or green will bring them out. On lids, stick with deep, rich shades that blend easily into your skin tone. Chocolate, caramel and gold are great shades for a natural look.

Lips: “I love the look of pink lips with dark skin,” says Bobbi. There are no rules here, but her tip is to line the lips with a dark pencil (plum would work well), blend it into the lips and cover with a sheer gloss in pink, white, silver or gold.

Eyes Trick and Makeup Tips

  • If you’re going to line your eyes but want them to look bigger, line only the top. But if you want to line the bottom too, line just the outer half.
  • Another tip for eyes to appear bigger: Line your eyes with white eyeliner. Darker colors make your features smaller; consequently, black eyeliner would make your eyes appear smaller.
  • Put your pencil eyeliner in the freezer for awhile before applying it. The tip will be more hard and make the eyeliner easier to apply.
  • To give the appearance of wide-set eyes (eyes that are further apart), apply eye shadow/liner on the outer part of your eyes; vice versa for a desired appearance of close-set eyes (eyes that are closer together).
  • For a modern version of liquid liner, dip your eyeliner brush in water, then eye shadow, and apply.
  • If you want a smoky eye, use an eyeliner that smudges easily, and smudge it with a spongy tip. Some eyeliners supply these on the opposite end of the liner part, like Max Factor Pensilks. After smudging your eyeliner, apply eye shadow close to the lashes in the same color as your eyeliner.
  • If you want your lashes to appear thicker, apply coats of mascara. Try not to apply it all at once, or you can get clumps.
  • To separate lashes, use a lash comb. This also gets rid of clumps.
  • When applying any eyeliner, pull your eyelid taut to make a smoother surface for the liner.
  • Apply mascara from roots to ends of lashes while moving wand from side to side.
  • Mascara starts to go bad after about 3 months or so (smell and clumps take place), so make sure to replace it accordingly.
  • Applying foundation on your lids before eyeshadow helps the shadow to stick better.
  • Usually there are three basic shades for eyeshadow and their locations: The lightest goes right below the eyebrow (to make eyes appear brighter), the darkest in the eye crease (to define your crease), and the medium shade goes on the actual eyelid (for the basic color).



1st I will start with blue and follow with green. Eye color is very important in the type of eyeshadow color you plan on using.  Just as equally is other factors such as skin color, undertone, and hair color.

For detailed information on most Coloring please refer to the previous posting called Coloring.

MAKEUP FOR BLACK HAIR, LIGHT SKIN, and Blue Eyes-  Blue eyes look best in Every shade of browns and certain type of spicy almost burnt oranges. May use gray or stale light blue if you want to make your eyes more cool toned. I would suggest staying away from bright intense blue; these are best for brown eyes.  Blue on blue can make your eyes less noticeable.  Using warm or browns are the opposite of your eye color spectrum. Therefor prefect if you want to achieve a dramatic look by the use of contrast.  Darkest colors- you may want to stay away from black if your very fair but if you are cool toned you can pull it off unless you have blonde or equally light hair. Dark grays, chocolate, dark browns, sable browns, and brown black are great for very pale, pale, or light skin cool tone complexions of Caucasian decent.

If you want to make your eyes pop and you are pale then what colors do you use?  White or warm cream golden colors are Not going to do for you what it will for woman of warm peach or yellow skin tone.

Color tones may you off white cream tones in a blue undertone. Look for a silver cool tone to your whites. So silver tones (cool) or off white cream.

How can you make your lips hot in night club lighting? Stay away from mattes and very light natural colors. Unless you plan on playup only your eyes then this is not for you. Don’t use very dark lipstick and instead try a sheer but bright color in the mauve, fuchsia, or berry family.  When used in a sheer form, moisturizing satin or glossy, it plays up your lips. The light hits your lips creating a noticeable yet beautiful look without looking vamp. The lipstick, lip tint, or gloss. Look for sheer on the color label to insure it is not full coverage.

Colors too light makes you look dead more pale in mostly blue green or red lighting. Stay away from frost too in night club lighting unless your going for that look.

Green Eyes look best (contrast) in purples and pinks.

Next question I will address is where can you find makeup for mixed race women, what colors should you use when color selections are few. How not to have a pumpkin orange face. These factors can happen with mixed race or fair, olive, and dark skin women of every race.

If you know any answers to the questions of what colors you should use on fair, olive, or dark skin then please feel free to leave a comment.   * Please note that comments most be approved first and if you leave a message not pertaining to the question or are spamming, by advertising on the comment section with a store url address or brand name product, your comment will Not be posted and will be deleted.




Based on your features and natural coloring, like hair color, eye color, skin color etc, you could determine what colors make you look your best. I’ve set up a quick reference list to help you decide what colors can work for you the best. Now keep in mind, these are the views of a individual, not a professional stylist or cosmetologist. The whole site contains my own personal opinions, and these are simply my suggestions for anyone who needs help on matters relating to these topics. so here’s the guide:

If you pretty much have blondish, light hair, warm, light skin, and blue eyes, try these colors.
Lips: Light and pinkish tones suit you best. Red probably doesn’t.
Eyes: Again, light is better. Sheer purples, pinks, yellows, sea greens, and tans will most likely look best.

Now this is similar to the last coloring, but you have more yellow or green in your eyes, and your hair is just a little bit darker, maybe with highlights.
Lips:Sheers, in shades of burgundys and pinks.
Eyes: Lilacs, light greens, and peach-type colors.

Is your hair brownish red, and your skin pale? Do you have light colored eyes? If your lips have a lot of red in them naturally already, you pretty much have enough coloring as is. But if you like wearing makeup like me, here are some colors that may work.
Lips:Pinks and burgundys again; reddish browns.
Eyes: Light purples, browns, shades of apricot, and maybe light greens.



If you have warm, a little more darker skin with yellow undertones, and brownish yellow eyes and dark brown hair, colors in warm shades probably look better, instead of cool blues.
Lips: Basic deep red, purple shades, and yellowish browns.
Eyes:Shiny golds, beiges, and light purples.

With not light, but not dark skin, and really dark eyes and hair, you can pull off piercing dark colors. Try:
Lips: Reddish browns, dark purples, dark reds, dark browns.
Eyes: More dark browns, purplish browns, golds.

Instead of medium skin, do you have glowing, dark skin with yellow undertones, and really dark hair and nearly black eyes? Shimmering makeup probably looks great on you. But as far as coloring goes, these may help…
Lips: Deep purples (even almost-black shades), deep dark reds and browns.
Eyes:Glimmering golds and beiges, more deep purples.

If, like me, you have really pale skin, with slight yellow undertones, green eyes, and black hair, try these colors.
Lips:Burgundys, dark natural pinks/rosy shades, and orange or bluish purples if you like funky colors. But if you’re going to wear those, try to wear something else that matches :/
Eyes:Sheer purples, glimmering lilac shades, beiges.

Same as the last coloring, except your undertones and eyes seem a little more cool and blue rather than warm, yellow, or green.
Lips: Classic red again, shades of blue, shiny purples, basically anything in a reddish, bluish, or purplish shade.
Eyes: Shimmering blues, silvers, and purples or charcoals.

Create Smoky Eyes

How to Apply Waterproof Mascara
Whenever you apply waterproof mascara make sure that the mascara covers your eye lashes from the root to the tip. If you want to apply any other eye-make up you should ensure that you curl your lashes with an eyelash curler before you do so. Shorter mascara brushes are always preferable since they would give you more control which is essential, especially when you are applying mascara at the corner of your eyes.

Choosing Mascara Colors

There is wide variety of colors that you choose from when it comes to waterproof mascaras. A good choice would be the latest colored high impact mascaras which make a bold fashion statement. For a much more natural look you should always match the color of your mascara with that of your hair. For example, blondes would always look good in a browner shade while black would perfectly suit brunettes. The right colored mascara, if applied properly, can make you the cynosure of all eyes, whatever the occasion.

Makeup Blog *LIPS*

Don’t bolt with a tissue, this is because a tissue is made up of wood fibers. Use a coffee filter instead and you won’t have all that gunk on your lips when your finished You’ll be very happy with the results at the end, and when your finished just toss it.

Find a lip-liner you totally love. Put it on all across your bottom lip and some on your top lip. Then put some lip balm, clear gloss or a hint of color. A totally cute new creation that you must have to like.

Finding your perfect shade puts an extra skip in your step. You’ll be very happy with the final
results choosing the right shade according to your skin tone. The easiest way to figure out if your skin tone is cool or warm is to put on the most orange lipstick shade or fabric on your lips or up against your face. Do this in natural lighting. Later take off and just try the rosy red. This are extreme shades of warm and cool tones.

Lipstick colors by skin color:
dark skin= plums, chocolates, reds, pastels & oranges

medium skin=all reds, brown-mauve, sheer berry & spicy brown

light skin=nudes, beige’s, light corals & light pinks.

This is just a guide and not a rule. Colors that are the most flattering on you also depend on your contrast (hair and eyes) and season. Pick the right color! If your complexion is pink (rosy / blue base), you’ll look better in plum or mauve  shades, while girls with yellow tones are flattered by warmer reds that have a brown base.

After apply gloss or lipstick put a little white eyeshadow in the center of your lower lip. Rub your lips together till you get a subtle look. It gives your mouth a full,sexy, pouty look. To get the excess lipstick off your lips and or teeth make an “o’ shape with your mouth and put your finger in it and pull it out slowly.  It really works.!